Types of Bits

All About Bits describes the two basic types of bit: the Snaffle Bit and the Curb Bit. The difference between the two types of bit is that the snaffle is a non-leverage bit and the curb is a leverage bit. In general one starts with a softer snaffle and transitions to harsher bits as the mouth gets less sensitive (eastcoasthorses.com). For explanations on the use, action and appearance of bits and bridles check out horses.about.com.

Very consistently, the websites agreed that it is important NOT to start a horse in a curb bit. The controversy begins with which type of snaffle or not, to use for training.

Alloys: There are so many types of metal and combinations for the bits as well! HorseBit.com basically found that stainless steel bits make horses become dry mouthed and that they do not tend to accept the bit as well as a nickel-copper alloy bit.

Fitting the Bit:

Dr. Hilary Clayton, veterinarian at MSU, conducted a yearlong bit study, funded by the USEA, that examined and compared the position and movements of different types and sizes of bits in the horse’s mouth using fluoroscopy, which provides a moving radiographic view. A Horsecity.com article states, “Dr. Clayton believes many factors need to be taken into consideration—namely the size and shape of the horse’s mouth. Dr. Clayton believes bit size is a more crucial measurement than most people think. She advises measuring the width from lip to lip on your horse, and adding ¼” to get the proper measurement for your bit.”

From A Bit of Advice – Cherry Hill: The movement of the arms both at the joint and at the rings encourage a horse to “mouth” the bit or “play” with it, that is roll it and lift it with his tongue (but not bite it). This leads to a suppleness and relaxation of the jaw. That’s why jointed mouthpieces are preferred over solid mouthpieces for suppling and lateral work such as bending and turning. Hinged snaffles only bend in one plane and have a tighter action than jointed snaffles.

From Rebecca Colnar, in Horse Tack, A Bit of Advice: “These gaps between the front teeth and the back teeth on either side of the jaw consist of tissue-covered, pressure-sensitive cartilage. The bit lies across the bars and presses against the horse’s tongue. Depending on its shape and adjustment, a bit can also put pressure on the horse’s lips and on the roof of its mouth,” Meredith says. He notes that pressure on the lips is least effective, “because the lips are an unstable surface and are easily injured.”

SNAFFLES

horsebit.com: when used on their own, operate using only the points of control within the mouth. Generally there is no flexion of the poll or lower jaw and in most cases, the result is an upwards and backwards movement of the horse’s head, towards the rider’s hands.

peeweebit.com: The snaffle has a wedge effect like a nutcracker. The bit then contacts various part of the mouth (tongue, roof of mouth and bars). The horse will then yield from the area of pressure, going away from the bit. The bit can be very painful.

Types of Snaffle Bits:

Eggbutt snaffle:

From All About Bits: The gentlest type of snaffle bit is the Eggbutt snaffle. The reason this bit is so gentle is that it doesn’t pinch the corners of the mouth.

D-Ring snaffle:

The straight bars on the Ds help prevent the bit from pulling through the mouth. The jointed mouthpiece has a nutcracker effect on the bars, tongue and palate.

Loose-Ring snaffle:

The mouthpiece is attached to a full-round ring, and can slide around on it, allowing the bit to lay in the most natural position, whatever horse it is used on.

Full Cheek Snaffle:

The cheek-pieces prevent the bit from being pulled through the mouth.

Solid Mullen:

The Pee Wee Bit has a smooth curved sweet iron mouth bar which lays comfortably over the horse’s tongue which makes it very acceptable to the horse. The amazing control of the bit comes from specific placement of angled side bars which only contact the lower jaw. It is the position of these bars which give very direct and precise signals to the horse encouraging the horse to yield from this area of pressure. This bit encourages neck flex and helps lower the head at the same time, allowing a more stable controlled turn at speed.


Solid versus Jointed: Cherry Hill states that “A snaffle’s mouthpiece can be solid or jointed. A solid straight bar won’t allow adequate space for your horse’s tongue. A solid mullen (gently curving) mouthpiece provides more tongue room and might give you more “whoa” power than a jointed bit but can cause a horse to become stiff in the jaw as he braces against the solid mouthpiece. A jointed mouthpiece provides tongue relief because the bit is able to peak.”

Single versus Double Jointed:

From ellenofstad.com; To prevent the problem with the nutcracker effect of the jointed snaffle and the potential for hitting the horse in the roof of the mouth some snaffles has three or more joints instead of two, and that is a good alternative if the horse is low in the upper jaw.

From Answers.com: Double-jointed bits reduce the nutcracker effect because they conform better to the horse’s “U” shaped mouth, instead of the “V” created by a single joint. In this respect they are milder, and many horses prefer a double-joint over a single joint.

Types of Bitless Bridles:

As there is no mouthpiece, this form of bridle only uses the points of control outside of the horse’s mouth, particularly the nose.

HACKAMORE:

For general terminology check out Wikipedia.

From Melvin Bradley: Hackamores are used to start colts in training. An untrained colt makes many mistakes, and the trainer needs to correct them. A hackamore doesn’t injure sensitive tissue in the colt’s mouth, yet it provides firm, safe control. Use of a hackamore is based on the simple principle that the horse learns to respond to pressures on its nose and under its chin.

Sidepulls:

Click on the images to view different sidepull bridles:

Overall impressions from the web information: First, you don’t train horses with equipment. And in general I still am not sold on any specific type of bit/no bit. This information does get me thinking about how a regular jointed snaffle can effect the mouth. However, I think I will try a few in stainless steel and see which one Darginka prefers before I invest in another metal alloy, and the first one I’m going to get is a double jointed snaffle. I certainly don’t want a horse to require a stronger bit because their mouth gets less sensitive over time. I already have a training hackamore and I think I would like to try the sidepull as well. The pee wee bit sounds interesting – has anyone tried it? Which are your favorite bits, or do you prefer no bits?